1986-1988 Toyota Pickup and Land Cruiser 22R-TE USDM Manual transmission
Big thanks to Ron Marlett, who sent us this one’s spreadsheet and startup map to make available to fellow 22R-TE enthusiasts. For more details on Ron’s setup,
see this thread on the 22R-TE forums.
Test Vehicle Details:
The vehicle used for drawing up these application docs was a 1986 Toyota pickup with a factory 22R-TE turbo motor. This one uses the factory wiring and sensors. You can also use the DIYPNP to remove the vane air flow meter and its associated restrictions. It’s running the stock 295 cc/min injectors. Vehicles with larger injectors will need to scale down the Required Fuel values accordingly. |
What to buy:
Required: Optional: What tools you’ll need: Soldering Iron, Solder, maybe some desoldering braid in case you make a mistake. Small phillips screwdriver. That’s about it.
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Startup Maps
Base Configuration .msq files to help you get your car fired up safely and quickly. Ready to tune.
We’re including these maps prior to showing you how to jumper your DIYPNP up. There’s a reason for that. The base ignition settings contained in these maps should be loaded on your DIYPNP before you power your car up (with the key) with the DIYPNP installed. This is to prevent damage to your ignition system in case the default settings are not correct for your vehicle. Note that you can power up the DIYPNP off the vehicle on a power supply connected to the power jack next to the DB15 connector.
So here’s our recommendation– After you complete basic assembly, Power up your DIYPNP one of two ways. Either plug a Stimulator Power Supply into the front panel of the box (the easiest way), or, start the Jumper Section below, but only connect the power and ground wires to start with. That way you can plug the DIYPNP into your factory wiring harness and safely power it from your car. The third option, if you’ve fully assembled and jumpered your DIYPNP already, is to unplug your coils from their power connectors before plugging the DIYPNP into your factory harness and powering it from there. Then and only then, you can flash the firmware on your DIYPNP to the MS2/Extra firmware if you haven’t already, and then load the startup map provided to help you get your vehicle started. Click Here to Download Startup Maps for this Vehicle Once the vehicle is started, you will need to use the MS2/Extra manuals to set the base timing and begin to tune the vehicle! This is critical! Do not drive an untuned vehicle! |
DIYPNP Jumper Configuration
This section will cover the standard, basic jumper configuration required to get the vehicle running using your DIYPNP.
Vehicle Information
Market: | USDM |
Make: | Toyota |
Model: | 4X4 PU |
Year: | 1986 |
Engine: | 22R-TE |
Transmission: | Manual |
Trim: |
System Information
Main Board: | DIYPNP v1.1 |
Minimum Code Version | MS2/Extra 2.1.0 |
Edge Pin Connections
Main | Adapter |
---|---|
IAT | A3 |
CLT | B10 |
TPS SIG | B11 |
O2 SENSOR | B13 |
VR IN + | |
VR IN – | |
OPTO IN + | B1 |
OPTO IN – | |
VR2 IN + | |
IAC | |
TACH OUT | |
FUEL PUMP | * |
INJ1 | C9 |
INJ2 | C4 |
12V | A1 |
12V | A8 |
12V | |
VREF | B12 |
5V | |
SG | A12 |
SG | B14 |
GND | C5 |
GND | C7 |
GND | C10 |
GND | Note 1 |
GND | |
IGN1 | C8 |
IGN2 | |
WLED | |
ALED |
Pull Ups
Connection | Resistance | Voltage |
---|---|---|
ALED | ||
WLED | ||
OPTO+ | 1k ohm | 12v |
VR2 | ||
IAC |
High Current Drivers
Output | Enabled | To Pin |
---|---|---|
S1 | ||
S2 | ||
S3 | ||
S4 |
Knock Circuit
Enabled | Sensor + | Sensor – |
---|---|---|
I/O Circuits
Circuit | Input From | Out Pin To | Purpose |
---|---|---|---|
Relay 1 | |||
Relay 2 | |||
Boost | |||
Input 1 | |||
Input 2 |
Miscellaneous Jumpers
On | Off | |
---|---|---|
OPTO GND | X | |
BL/TH | X |
Notes
* See notes below on fuel pump.
Ignition Settings
Spark Mode | Basic Trigger |
Trigger Angle | 5 |
Main/Return | |
Oddfire Angle | |
GM HEI/DIS | Off |
Use Cam Signal | |
Ignition Input Capture | Falling Edge |
Spark Output | Going High (Inverted) |
Number of Coils | Single Coil |
Dwell type | Standard Dwell |
Cranking Dwell | 4 |
Cranking Advance | 10 |
Maximum Dwell | 3.2 |
Maximum Spark Duration | 0.7 |
Trigger wheel arrangement | |
Trigger wheel teeth | |
Missing teeth | |
Tooth #1 angle | |
Wheel speed | |
Second trigger active on | |
and every rotation of |
Sensor Calibration
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Deleting the AFM
This is completely optional of course… but if you’d like to rid yourself of that pesky and restrictive Air Flow Meter you need to concern yourself with two things. One, the stock IAT sensor is inside that housing. Two, the stock AFM controls the Fuel Pump, as in the fuel pump will only run with the AFM flapper door is open (when the engine is starting or running and air is flowing through the flapper). This allows the AFM to stop the fuel pump from running in the event then engine stops running, such as if you have an accident. When you remove the AFM you need to restore this functionality. IAT Sensor:Simply wire a GM Open Element IAT Sensor into your factory wiring harness at the AFM connector. You can poke wires into the AFM connector, or you can cut and splice. Wire one lead of the GM Sensor to the Brown Wire at the AFM Connector, and the other lead of the GM Sensor to the Yellow wire at the AFM Connector. Fuel Pump Control:To control the fuel pump, you need to do two things. You need to run a jumper wire between two wires at the AFM first. The GRN wire (pin 2) and the LIGHT BLUE/RED Wire (pin 5). Connect these together. Next, you need to add a jumper wire to the inside of your DIYPNP EMS. Connect the FUEL PUMP hole (along the edge of the mainboard) to the A5 hole on the connectorboard. Now your DIYPNP has control of your fuel pump. If you previously installed your DIYPNP with the AFM in place, and calibrated the IAT Sensor for the 22R-TE Sensor, then you’ll need to recalibrate it now back to the GM IAT Sensor settings. Go back to ‘Tools > Calibrate Thermistor Tables’. Choose Intake Air Temp Sensor. Choose ‘GM’ under ‘Common Sensor Defaults’. Click Write to Controller and then click Close. |
Read the Manuals, You are Responsible for your own results!
This Application Doc is intended to assist you in your DIYPNP DIY EFI Installation. We’ve done a fair amount of research, and actually tested on a similar vehicle to help ensure we can provide the most accurate information possible to make your installation go as smoothly as possible. That said, there are certain things you could do incorrectly, or certain things you could change up, that could cause you to run into issues. Our tech support department will be glad to assist you working through any issues you might have, please contact us and give us that opportunity and we should be able to work things out for you. Startup Maps included/attached to this Application Doc is intended only to help you get your engine started so that you can properly tune your engine. The map will be setup properly for a stock vehicle matching the year/make/model/trim in the ‘Test Vehicle Details’ section at the top of this page. If you have made any changes to your wiring, your ignition system, or other related components, this map may not be ideal for your vehicle. You will then need to check and confirm the appropriate settings and properly configure your DIYPNP EMS for your altered vehicle. Some maps offered may be more completely tuned that others, some may be just setup enough to get the car to fire up and idle with a little help from the throttle. That’s when the tuning begins. In short– We’ve provided you with the building blocks for an incredible EMS. You are however responsible for the implementation and your own successes or lack thereof, but rest assured that we’re here for you and we’re going to do everything in our power to make sure your project is a success. For more information on configuring and tuning your DIYPNP EMS, and for information on adding and tuning custom MS2/Extra features, read up athttps://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/. In fact, everyone implementing this system should read that manual from front to back if you really want to harness the power of the DIYPNP EMS. |
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