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Simplified spark output and VTEC control circuit schematic
Models covered:
- All 1992-2000 Civics, Del Sols, and Integras
- 1992-2001 Prelude
- 1992-2002 Accord four cylinder models
Some, but not all, OBD0 Hondas also work with this article. This covers many of the popular Honda four cylinder engines, including the D16 family, B16A, B18C, H22A, and F23A. It does not cover later coil on plug ignition systems such as the ones used on the S2000 or D17 powered Civics.
What’s covered in this article
Note that our tech ‘Install Articles’ typically focus on the most confusing part of the install process for the end user, and that’s taking control of the ignition system. This is the part of the process that’s different from car to car and hence we chime in with specifics to help where we can. For the rest of the details, the parts that are the same on every car like the coolant, intake, TPS, and o2 sensors, see the wiring section of MSExtra.com
Honda’s distributor design
Honda used a similar set of electronics across their model range during the ’90s. These designs use three separate VR sensors called CYL or CYP, TDC, and Crank or CKP. These produce 1, 4, and 24 pulses per camshaft revolution. Usually all four sensors are in the distributor, but some F and H series motors locate the TDC and CKP sensors on the crankshaft instead. There are a number of different ways you can use these sensors, but by far the easiest way is to use the TDC sensor and simply ignore the other two. The colors Honda used for the TDC sensor vary from year to year and model to model. The most common color schemes appear to be orange and blue for the positive wire and white and blue for the negative wire, or green for the positive wire and red for the negative wire. The factory wiring diagram will always show this sensor as the TDC sensor.
The ignition module in these cars lets current flow through the coil when the input is grounded. When the coil is not charging, the voltage is slightly above 5 volts, which is reflected in the circuit shown here.
If you are using a V2.2 board, it can be easier to use a GM HEI module for conditioning the VR signal. V3.0 and higher boards can read the VR signal directly.
Using the MegaSquirt-I (MSnS-E) with the Honda ignition moduleThis is a straightforward option with a V3.0 or V3.57 board. MegaSquirt-I PCBv3.0 Mods Required:
That’s it! MegaSquirt-I PCBv3.57 Mods Required:
That’s it! External Ignition Wiring
MSnS-E Ignition Configuration
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Using the MegaSquirt-I (MSnS-E) with a 7 Pin HEI moduleIf you happen to have a V2.2 board, using a HEI module can be easier than building a VR conditioner input circuit on a board that never had one. MSExtra.com has detailed information about how to set up Megasquirt to work with an HEI ignition. This write-up uses slightly different pins. MegaSquirt-I PCBv2.2 Mods Required:
External Ignition Wiring
MSnS-E Ignition Configuration
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Using the MegaSquirt-II PCBv3 with the Honda ignition moduleMegaSquirt-II PCBv3.0 Mods Required:
That’s it! MegaSquirt-II PCBv3.57 Mods Required:
That’s it! External Ignition Wiring
Ignition Configuration:
Set the dwell to 3.0 ms. More information on setting Trigger Offset:You must also set the initial position of the trigger (called the ‘trigger offset’), then check it using the Trigger Wizard in TunerStudio (Tools Menu). The trigger offset setting will vary according to your distributor position (where it is in rotation) but you’ll need to set it properly… Basically you use the Trigger Wizard and adjust the ‘trigger offset’ and/or twist your distributor until the advance number in the Trigger Wizard matches what you’re reading with your timing light. The +/- buttons on the trigger wizard will adjust your trigger offset. You’ll need to use these buttons and a timing light to make the number on your light, and the big number on the left in the Trigger Wizard, match up. Here’s the information on this: Before tuning your advance table, be sure to use a timing light to verify that your ‘trigger offset‘ is calibrated. Changing the Trigger Offset in TunerStudio will not change the displayed advance, instead, it changes the actual advance as seen with a timing light. Your goal is to make these two match. To do this, get your engine warmed-up (otherwise the timing moves as the temperature increases) and idling, then use a timing light to verify to be certain your actual advance as shown by a timing light equals your the advance display on the advance gauge in TunerStudio. (8, in this case). (Note that positive numbers denote BTDC, and negative numbers denote after TDC.) Image courtesy of Bowling and Grippo |
IAC Valves
These Hondas all used a PWM IAC valve. This valve runs at a frequency around 500 Hz, so in MS1/Extra you will need to set the frequency to 20, while in MS2 Bowling & Grippo code you enter the number 500 directly. V3.57 boards need no modifications to control this valve, while V2.2 and V3.0 boards will need a TIP120 transistor, like the one included in our MK-PWMIAC mod kit.
VTEC control
While the ECU normally grounds devices to activate them, the VTEC solenoid gets 12 volt power from the factory ECU. The easiest way to control this is to add a relay control circuit to the Megasquirt and use a relay to power the VTEC control circuit. With Megsaquirt-I, you will just set the RPM where it activates, while Megasquirt-II also lets you set a minimum throttle position at the same time.
This circuit shows a more complex VTEC control circuit that does not use a relay:
The point labeled “To MS CPU” connects directly to any of the processor output pins used for spare outputs.
Suggested parts
For a good basic installation, the Megasquirt-I V3.0 (or V3.57) will meet your needs. The Megasquirt-II is a good upgrade if you want the latest and greatest, particularly if you’re running very large injectors. You will be able to use your existing sensors except for the MAP sensor which is built into the Megasquirt.
ECU options:
- Megasquirt-I V3.0 kit
- Megasquirt-I V3.57 assembled unit
- Megasquirt-II V3.0 kit
- Megasquirt-II V3.57 assembled unit
Mod kits discussed in this article:
- MK-Pullup for ignition mods
- MK-BIP373
- MK-PWMIAC for idle control
- MK-RelayCtrl for VTEC
Other recommended parts
- V2.2 Stimulator kit or assembled Stimulator
- 12′ wiring harness or 18″ wiring pigtail
- 6′ DB9 tuning cable
- USB adapter
- wideband O2 sensor system
If you are looking for an assembled unit with the mods in this article already installed, please contact us directly.