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How to MegaSquirt your Modular Motor powered Mustang
Thanks and props to 'DieselGeek' for alot of help getting this
info together! You are the man!
Also-- if you haven't already, please read the 'disclaimer' at the top of the
parent page here.
Updated 10/1/2009
Applications: 1996-2004 Mustangs with the 4.6 modular motor. We'll also have
a couple tips on other vehicles with the 4.6 and 5.4 liter mod motor V8s; the
modifcations are about the same if you're working with a Thunderbird, Navigator,
Crown Victoria, Lightning, or F150 as well. These
motors all use the same sort of crank wheel. You can use either an external
EDIS-8 module (found on the OBD-I version of the mod motor), or have Megasquirt
fire the coils directly if you are using a V3.0 or later board. Depending on the
year and features, you may need to do a parallel installation with the stock ECU
controlling gauges and other functions the MS cannot easily take control over.
1999 and later Mustangs have ECU controlled gauges and need a parallel
installation if you wish to keep this function.
Generally, we recommend using the latest MS2/Extra code to fire wasted spark
coils directly. We've found MS2/Extra to work great at decoding Ford trigger
wheels, and you won't have to add any external modules. Plus, you can set the
rev limit wherever you like and use a spark cut rev limiter. We'll also cover
alternative methods using MS1/Extra and the EDIS modules off OBD-I Crown
Victorias and Lincolns. Direct Coil Control Distributorless Ignition on a Megasquirt-II V3.0
or V3.57 Board
Using MS2/Extra firmware, version 2.0.1 or higher
Hardware mods required:
- Build the VR
conditioner circuit, as described in Step 51 of the MegaManual. All
our preassembled Megasquirts with the V3.0 or V3.57 board come with this
circuit installed.
- Jumper TachSelect
to VRIN. (V3.57: Set JP1 to the 1-2 position.)
- Jumper TSEL to
VROUT. (V3.57: Set J1 to the 3-4 position.)
- You may need to
adjust the VR trim pots, R52 and R56, when this is installed on a
running engine. A usual base setting is to turn them all the way
counterclockwise.
- Jumper IGBTOUT to
IGN to send to IGBT ignition coil driver signal out of pin 36 on the
DB37. (not needed on a V3.57)
- Cut out R57 if
fitted (This won't be there on my units, though.).
Now for constructing the
outputs...
- Get a 330 ohm 1/4w
resistor and cut the leads down to about 1/2" at each end. Maybe a
bit less.
- Tin each end of the
resistor with a bit of solder.
- Cut a 5" piece of
hookup wire (22ga is fine) and strip just a 1/8" or so. Tin the
stripped wire with solder.
- Melt the tinned
wire tip to one end of the tinned 330 ohm resistor tip and let it
cool.
- Heatshrink wrap
this wire/resistor assembly.
- Use this
wire/resistor combo to jumper the 'top' (top as in when you facing
the silkscreen side of the PCB, with the text so that you can read
it normally) lead of R26 to IGBTIN on the opposite side of the PCB.
(On a V3.57, this is kind of tricky. It's easier to use pin 7 on the
U1 socket instead.)
- Now, you will be constructing duplicates
of this BIP373 circuit for each coil output you need. You will be
using outputs A through D on a V8. You can mount the additional BIP373s on
a second heat sink stacked on top of the first, attached on top with
long screws. Or you can mount the BIP373s to the case.
- Each BIP373 will need a resistor-on-a-wire
assembly, running to its left leg. You will get the BIP373 input
signal from the following locations:
| Output |
Input Location (V3.0) |
Input Location (V3.57) |
| Spark A |
Top of R26 |
U1 pin 7 |
| Spark B |
Top of R29 |
U1 pin 8 |
| Spark C |
Top of R27 |
U1 pin 9 |
| Spark D |
JS10 |
JS10 |
- The center leg of the BIP373 is its spark
output. We have found that the IAC traces can carry enough current
for normal use, so you can use one IAC trace for each spark output.
You may need to add an extra connector with the V3.0 on 12 cylinder applications,
or if you are running a stepper IAC. You can use this pinout
if you are not running a stepper IAC, for up to 8 cylinders.
| Output |
Board connection |
DB37 pin |
| Spark A |
IGN |
36 |
| Spark B |
IAC2B |
31 |
| Spark C |
IAC2A |
29 |
| Spark D |
IAC1B |
27 |
Our assembled V3.57 MS2s are already built for
stepper IAC control, so this is the pinout they use.
| Output |
Board connection |
Output pin |
| Spark A |
IGN |
DB37 pin 36 |
| Spark B |
IAC2B |
DB15 pin 10 |
| Spark C |
IAC2A |
DB15 pin 11 |
| Spark D |
IAC1B |
DB15 pin 12 |
- Connect the right leg of each BIP373 to a
ground, such as the proto area ground or SG pins. It's best if you
can find a separate ground for each BIP373.
External wiring:
- Connect the VR sensor to pin 24 and the
shielded ground wire.
- Connect the negative terminals of the coil
to the pins specified in the above pinout.
MegaTune settings required:
Under Tach Input / Ignition Settings:
- Set Spark Mode to "Toothed Wheel."
- Set the trigger angle / offset to 0.
- Set Ignition Input Capture to "Falling
Edge."
- Set Spark Output to "Going High
(Inverted)." Setting this wrong can
overheat the BIP373s or damage the coils.
- Set Number of Coils to "Wasted Spark."
- Set Spark A output pin to D14.
Under Trigger Wheel Settings:
Some settings are the same for all engines.
- Trigger Wheel Arrangement: Single wheel
with missing teeth
- Trigger Wheel Teeth: 36
- Missing Teeth: 1
- Wheel Speed: Crank Wheel
- Tooth #1 Angle: 40
Enable dwell control and adjust as needed to
match the coils you are using. Set the dwell at a very low value to
start with (we've found Ford EDIS coils have especially short dwell
times) and increase it slowly. Back it off if the BIP373s become hot to
the touch.
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EDIS on a Megasquirt-I V2.2 Board
Using MSnS-E firmware
Hardware mods required:
- Remove D5, D8, R10, and the XG1-XG2
jumper.
- Jumper XG1 to the right hole of D5.
- Install a 1K resistor in place of D8.
- Run a jumper from the bottom hole of R10
and the banded side of the D9 diode.
- Use a 750 ohm to 1K resistor to connect
the right side of R23 to the negative side of D17.
- Run a wire from the negative side of D17
to X11 to bring the SAW output out on the DB37 pin 25.
External wiring:
- Connect the EDIS PIP signal to pin 24.
- Connect the EDIS SAW signal to pin 25.
MegaTune settings required:
Under Codebase and Output Functions:
- Set EDIS on, and all other code types off.
- Set LED17(D14) Function to Spark Output A.
- Turn off all other spark outputs.
Under Spark Settings:
- Set Trigger Angle and Trigger Angle
Ignition to 0.
- Set Cranking Timing to Trigger Return.
- Set Hold Ignition to 0.
- Set Spark Output Inverted to Yes.
- Do not select oddfire.
Under Dwell Settings:
- Specify Fixed Duty, 50% duty cycle.
The MSnS-E manual has a
detailed write-up about EDIS here. |
EDIS on a Megasquirt-I V3.0 Board
Using MSnS-E firmware
Hardware mods required:
- Remove C30.
- Run a jumper from the top hole of C30 to
S12C.
- If building the board from scratch, you do
not need to include D1 or D2, but they do not need to be removed.
- Replace R12 with a 1K resistor.
- Remove the XG1 to XG2 jumper, and jumper
XG1 to TachSelect.
- Jumper OPTOUT to TSEL.
- Connect a 750 ohm to 1K resistor from the
right side of R24 or the 5V hole in the proto area to the negative
lead of D14.
- Run a wire from the negative lead of D14
to the IGN jumper hole on the opposite side of the board to bring
the SAW output out to pin 36 of the DB37 connector.
External wiring:
- Connect the EDIS PIP signal to pin 24.
- Connect the EDIS SAW signal to pin 36.
MegaTune settings required:
Under Codebase and Output Functions:
- Set EDIS on, and all other code types off.
- Set LED17(D14) Function to Spark Output A.
- Turn off all other spark outputs.
Under Spark Settings:
- Set Trigger Angle and Trigger Angle
Addition to 0.
- Set Cranking Timing to Trigger Return.
- Set Hold Ignition to 0.
- Set Spark Output Inverted to Yes.
- Do not select oddfire.
Under Dwell Settings:
- Specify Fixed Duty, 50% duty cycle.
The MSnS-E manual has a
detailed write-up about EDIS here.
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Direct Coil Control Distributorless Ignition on a Megasquirt-I V3.0 or V3.57 Board
Using MSnS-E firmware
Hardware mods required:
- Build the VR
conditioner circuit, as described in Step 51 of the MegaManual. All
our preassembled Megasquirts with the V3.0 or V3.57 board come with this
circuit installed.
- Jumper TachSelect
to VRIN. (V3.57: Set JP1 to the 1-2 position.)
- Jumper TSEL to
VROUT. (V3.57: Set J1 to the 3-4 position.)
- You may need to
adjust the VR trim pots, R52 and R56, when this is installed on a
running engine. A usual base setting is to turn them all the way
counterclockwise.
- Jumper IGBTOUT to
IGN to send to IGBT ignition coil driver signal out of pin 36 on the
DB37. (V3.0 only)
- Cut out R57 if
fitted (This won't be there on my units, though.).
Now for constructing the
outputs...
- Get a 330 ohm 1/4w
resistor and cut the leads down to about 1/2" at each end. Maybe a
bit less.
- Tin each end of the
resistor with a bit of solder.
- Cut a 5" piece of
hookup wire (22ga is fine) and strip just a 1/8" or so. Tin the
stripped wire with solder.
- Melt the tinned
wire tip to one end of the tinned 330 ohm resistor tip and let it
cool.
- Heatshrink wrap
this wire/resistor assembly.
- Use this
wire/resistor combo to jumper the 'top' (top as in when you facing
the silkscreen side of the PCB, with the text so that you can read
it normally) lead of R26 to IGBTIN on the opposite side of the PCB.
(On a V3.57, this is kind of tricky. It's easier to use pin 7 on the
U1 socket instead.)
- Now, you will be constructing duplicates
of this BIP373 circuit for each coil output you need. On these
motors, you'll be using spark outputs A through D. You can mount the additional BIP373s on
a second heat sink stacked on top of the first, attached on top with
long screws. Or you can mount the BIP373s to the case.
- Each BIP373 will need a resistor-on-a-wire
assembly, running to its left leg. You will get the BIP373 input
signal from the following locations:
| Output |
Input Location (V3.0) |
Input Location (V3.57) |
| Spark A |
Top of R26 |
U1 pin 7 |
| Spark B |
Top of R29 |
U1 pin 8 |
| Spark C |
Top of R27 |
U1 pin 9 |
| Spark D |
Bottom of R1 with R1 removed |
Bottom of R1 with R1 removed |
- The center leg of the BIP373 is its spark
output. We have found that the IAC traces can carry enough current
for normal use, so you can use one IAC trace for each spark output.
This is our recommended pinout, which we use in our assembled ECUs.
| Output |
Board connection |
DB37 pin |
| Spark A |
IGN |
36 |
| Spark B |
IAC2B |
31 |
| Spark C |
IAC2A |
29 |
| Spark D |
IAC1B |
27 |
- Connect the right leg of each BIP373 to a
ground, such as the proto area ground or SG pins. It's best if you
can find a separate ground for each BIP373.
External wiring:
- Connect the VR sensor to pin 24 and the
shielded ground wire.
- Connect the negative terminals of the coil
to the pins specified in the above pinout.
MegaTune settings required:
Under Codebase and Output Functions:
- Set Generic Wheel on, and all other code
types off.
- Set one spark output for every two
cylinders.
- Turn off all unused spark outputs.
Under Wheel Decoder Settings:
Some settings are the same for all engines.
- Wheel decoder base teeth: 36
- 2nd trigger enable: Off
- Missing Teeth: -1
- Dual dizzy mode: Normal
- Wheel decoder routine: 025 style
Use these wheel decoder settings.
| Trig pos A |
Trig return pos A |
Trig pos B |
Trig return pos B |
Trig pos C |
Trig return pos C |
Trig pos D |
Trig return pos D |
Trig pos E |
Trig return pos E |
Trig pos F |
Trig return pos F |
| 35 |
4 |
8 |
13 |
17 |
22 |
26 |
31 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
Under Spark Settings:
- Trigger Angle: 60
- Trigger Angle Ignition: 0
- Cranking Timing: Trigger Return.
- Set Spark Output Inverted:
Yes.
Setting this wrong will overheat the BIP373.
Enable dwell control and adjust as needed to
match the coils you are using. Set the dwell at a very low value to
start with (we've found Ford EDIS coils have especially short dwell
times) and increase it slowly. Back it off if the BIP373s become hot to
the touch.
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EDIS on a Megasquirt-II V3.0 Board
Using standard MS-II Firmware
Hardware mods required:
If you're
assembling your MegaSquirt-II from a kit
(Part#
MS230-K):
- Build the ECU up to trigger from the
Hall/Optical Input.
- Jumper JS10 to IGN to bring the ignition
output directly to pin 36.
If you're
modifying a DIYAutoTune.com MS230-C MegaSquirt-II Assembled ECU:
No mods are required; our units are set up for
EDIS out of the box.
External wiring:
- Connect the EDIS PIP signal to pin 24.
- Connect the EDIS SAW signal to pin 36.
MegaTune settings required:
Under "Base Ignition Settings," make the
following settings.
- Trigger Offset: 0 degrees
- Predictor Algorithm: Last Interval
- Ignition Input Capture: Rising Edge
- Cranking Trigger: Calculated
- Coil Charging Scheme: EDIS
- Spark Output: Going High (Inverted)
The MegaManual has a
detailed write-up on using MS-II with EDIS for further reading. |
Other things the ECU controls
The ECU on modular motor Mustangs controlled a lot more than fuel and spark.
In particular, on 1999 and later cars, we recommend using a parallel
installation to keep the stock ECU in control of the gauges. See
this article for more tips
about parallel installations. 1998 and earlier ones do not need the stock ECU if
you have a manual transmission.
Air Conditioning: Most of these cars simply have the ECU activate a relay to
cut off the A/C at full throttle; the A/C otherwise works on its own.
Automatic transmission: All OBD2 modular motor cars have the automatic
transmission controlled by the stock ECU. If you have one of these, you will
need to retain the stock ECU for transmission control.
Cooling fans: These can be run with a
relay control mod.
Gauges: On '99 and later cars, retaining the stock gauges also calls for
retaining the stock ECU. On '98 and earlier Mustangs, the only ECU controlled
gauge is the tachometer. This can be controlled from an EDIS tach output, or you
can modify the ECU for tachometer control. See the tach output circuits in the
MS1/Extra and
MS2/Extra guides.
Idle speed: These use a 2 wire PWM idle air control valve which can be
controlled using the standard output circuit on a V3.57 board. V2.2 and V3.0
boards can control this using our
MK-PWMIAC mod kit.
IMRC: The Intake Manifold Runner Control valve is a simple on/off device that
can be controlled with a
relay control mod. Used on early versions of the 4.6 and 5.4 DOHC.
Year Specific Ignition Notes
96-98 4.6l Mustangs
Used two 4-tower coil packs, had a 36-1 wheel but no EDIS module.
Best route on these
to use the existing 36-1 wheel and VR sensor and add an EDIS-8 module. These
vehicles come with stock Motorcraft 4-tower coilpacks that are the same units as
used with earlier EDIS systems – i.e., you only need the EDIS module on these
cars to make them work. NOTE: You definitely want to run genuine Motorcraft
coilpacks, or MSD units as we have seen problems (with forced induction or
nitrous motors) with “Niehoff” or “Wells” (or any other non-OEM or non-MSD)
units.
These cars also had
the “return” type fuel system standard to most EFI vehicles.
99-2004 'Modular' 4.6l
mustangs
99+ 4.6 engines (all
models) use Coil-On-Plug ignition. They run a 36-1 crank trigger wheel
and VR sensor on the crankshaft inside the front engine cover. This is the same
trigger wheel and sensor used for the Ford EDIS system, Ford has just modified
the system to integrate the ignition module inside the EEC and run COPs instead
of a coil pack or two. So you’ve got two options here. Either way you’re using
the existing 36-1 trigger wheel and VR sensor, no need to change anything there.
You’ll want to add an EDIS-8 module though since we’re no longer using the EEC
and it’s integrated ignition module. The VR sensor will now need to be wired to
the EDIS-8 module.
Now's when it comes to decision time:
1) You can use the standard EDIS-8 coil packs and run plug wires. This
is the simplest option for sure and plenty adequate for most installations as
it's basically the same setup Ford used on the 96-98 Mustang. They just
had the EDIS module built into the EEC.
OR
2) Based on the following info from Scott Clark (DieselGeek) you can run COPs
from the EDIS-8 module:
You CAN run the
factory COPs with an EDIS module, although this will draw roughly double the
average power from your COP power supply. There are many successful
reports of this being “no problem” on COP installs, some 03 Cobra’s have made
upwards of 775whp using this scheme. Here’s how to wire an EDIS module to
COPs:
Channel 1 Trigger (EDIS Pin 8) -> Coil 6 (-)
Channel 2 Trigger (EDIS Pin 9) -> Coil 5 (-)
Channel 3 Trigger (EDIS Pin 11) -> Coil 4 (-)
Channel 4 Trigger (EDIS Pin 12) -> Coil 2 (-)
Coil 6 (+) -> Coil 1 (-)
Coil 5 (+) -> Coil 3 (-)
Coil 4 (+) -> Coil 7 (-)
Coil 2 (+) -> Coil 8 (-)
+12v -> Coil 1 (+)
+12v -> Coil 3 (+)
+12v -> Coil 7 (+)
+12v -> Coil 8 (+)
Either way you go, coil packs or COPs, once you've got this wired up and even
without the MegaSquirt hooked up to the ignition system the car should fire
right up (of course something has to be firing the injectors, either the EEC or
the MegaSquirt). This is because the EDIS-8 Module will run the car at 10
degrees BTDC when there is no computer control. This is it’s ‘limp home mode’
base timing.
Note: these years of
Mustangs use “returnless” fuel systems. Dieselgeek prefers to replace the
returnless system with a return-style system, as we’ve seen pressure
fluctuations on higher powered cars running returnless fuel supplies. However,
many cars are running 700+whp with their returnless systems successfully.
Retrofitting a return-style fuel supply is not too difficult on a later model
mustang… most run a new -8 line for the feed, and convert the old
returnless-feed line to be the new fuel return to the tank. Run a Walbro or
similar in-tank pump (or whatever matches your power demands).
Other non-year
specific Mustang notes from Dieselgeek:
Ground the Ford TPS
(ground wire) to the block or chassis. Don’t use the factory temp sensors
UNLESS you “re-ground” them – Ford’s sensors are on an isolated “ground” that
may behave “flaky” causing intermittent, one-second blips in whichever sensors
are on this isolated ground. What I usually do is reground the TPS sensor
ground to the chassis, then share the TPS signal (0-5v) wire going to the
factory ECU with the MegaSquirt. Then I like to run separate GM temp sensors –
the GM CLT sensor threads DIRECTLY into the Ford CLT sensor location, and you
can remove the Ford CLT sensor entirely (factory computer will know it’s
disconnected but will run the IAC fine). Thread the GM IAT into your intake
elbow or anywhere just before the throttle body on the intake.
What to Order
If you're buying an assembled unit, it will need special mods to work with
the ignition, as described above. We can install these for you for an extra
charge; please
contact us for details.
If you're building your unit from a kit, here is what we recommend.
MS230-K MegaSquirt II V3.0 Kit
3
MK-BIP373s to add extra coil drivers
MK-PWMIAC to control the IAC valve
MK-RelayCtrl for relay outputs, as needed
JimStim-K JimStim kit
MSHarness12 12' wiring harness
TuneCable6 serial cable
USB-2920 if your computer doesn't have an adapter port
If you are doing a parallel installation, we also recommend giving the MS its
own coolant and air temperature sensors:
CLTIATwPiggy Closed element CLT sensor
IATwPiggy Open element IAT sensor
We also recommend a
wideband oxygen
sensor system for tuning.
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